PALM OIL: Let’s Try to Understand It Well

In 2015, one of the most discussed topics in both TV debates and at home was the "infamous" palm oil, a vegetable oil that has been criticized on various fronts: nutritional, health, environmental, and socio-economic.

But where does palm oil come from? What is its history? How can it be considered harmful to health? In which foods is it found? And, most importantly, why is it one of the most widely used oils in the food industry?

As with any thorny issue, the most effective approach is to proceed slowly and untangle one knot at a time.


WHAT IS PALM OIL AND WHERE DOES IT COME FROM?

Palm oil is today one of the most widely used vegetable fats in the food industry. However, it was already known in ancient Egypt for its unique properties, which we will now explore.

It is a vegetable oil made up of approximately 50% saturated fats (49%) and 50% unsaturated fats (51%), extracted by pressing the fruit of the oil palm (Elaeis guineensis, Elaeis oleifera, and Attalea maripa), mostly grown in Malaysia and Indonesia.

Palm oil should not be confused with palm kernel oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the fruit and has different nutritional characteristics.

In addition to being used in the food industry, palm oil is widely used in the bioenergy, livestock, oleochemical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic sectors.

The following sections will explain why it is used, whether it is harmful to health as some claim, and its environmental implications (which many consider the most important factor to consider).


WHY IS IT USED IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY?

The advantages of this vegetable fat are significant and certainly contribute to its widespread use in the food industry.

    When fatty acids are exposed to rising temperatures without stopping, they eventually reach their maximum tolerable temperature, known as the "smoke point." When this point is surpassed, acrolein is released in the form of black smoke, which is irritating to the gastric mucosa and harmful to the liver.

    It is clear that the higher the smoke point, the more resistant the oil is to high temperatures and the less likely acrolein will form. Considering that frying temperatures are usually around 180-190°C, it becomes easy to understand why palm oil, with its 240°C smoke point, is preferred over other oils, whose smoke points are lower or similar to the frying temperature of battered or breaded foods. Here are the smoke points of commonly available oils in supermarkets:

    Palm oil, first and foremost, has excellent resistance to frying as it has a smoke point of about 240°C, the highest among all oils. What does this mean?

    - Extra virgin olive oil: 160°-210°C (depending on the olives used)
    - Butter: 160-170°C
    - Lard: 170°C
    - Sunflower: 110°C
    - Soybean: 160°C
    - Corn: 180°C
    - Coconut: 180°C
    - Peanut: 220°C (may have allergenic effects)

      Not only is palm oil resistant to temperature changes, but it is also technologically efficient: due to its low oxidation process, it improves the shelf life of foods, reducing the need for preservatives.

      One more detail is that palm oil is much cheaper than butter or other oils, helping lower the cost of the final product, benefiting both businesses and consumers.

      Palm oil has a neutral taste and fragrance, does not interfere with the flavors of the dish or dessert being prepared, and imparts a unique crispiness or creaminess to the products.


      IS IT DANGEROUS FOR HEALTH?

      Palm oil has often been accused of being harmful to human health.

      The first myth to dispel is that palm oil is carcinogenic. To date, no studies have confirmed the presence of carcinogenic substances in palm oil. In particular, the AIRC (Italian Association for Cancer Research) has considered the evidence regarding the carcinogenicity of palm oil inconclusive.

      The only known factor is the correlation between cancer and obesity. The World Cancer Research Fund, the leading authority in this area, has scientifically proven the link between diet, physical activity, and cancer. It is important to recognize that a diet rich in saturated fats, from any source (palm oil, butter, lard, raw milk), which is not offset by adequate physical exercise, predisposes individuals to various conditions, such as obesity, cardiovascular diseases, and diabetes. Many foods, when consumed excessively and not burned off through activity, can lead to overweight and, in extreme cases, obesity, which may increase the risk of cancer. For example, butter contains more fatty acids than palm oil (about 60%), lard contains 40%, while olive oil contains only 14%.

      No experienced nutritionist would target a single ingredient but would certainly recommend limiting saturated fats to a maximum of 10% of total daily calories (whether from palm oil or other sources of saturated fats).

      Furthermore, experts at CRA (Research Center for Food and Nutrition) have certified that in Italy, the largest source of saturated fats is cheese, cured meats, and meat in general, which contain cholesterol, unlike palm oil. Excessive cholesterol intake is harmful to heart health, arteries, and circulation.

      Palm oil, on the other hand, does not raise LDL cholesterol (the "bad" cholesterol), does not lower HDL cholesterol (the "good" cholesterol), and does not increase the risk of atherosclerosis (the buildup of fatty plaques in the arteries). It is interesting to note that countries most affected by cardiovascular diseases are Russia and Eastern Europe, while Southeast Asia, where palm oil is widely used, ranks much lower.


      THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF PALM OIL

      Given the versatility of palm oil and its low cost compared to other vegetable oils, the demand for it has increased over the years in international markets, particularly among large food, cosmetic, and biofuel industries. This has led to massive deforestation in Malaysia and Indonesia to make room for oil palm plantations.

      This has raised legitimate concerns, as the Indonesian peat forests store a carbon amount that exceeds by a third the global carbon stored in the atmosphere. These forests are an important global "lung" of oxygen, which should be preserved. Additionally, the residues from logging and transporting trunks are burned, releasing large amounts of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, further exacerbating the situation. Orangutans, which live in these forests, are being displaced from their habitat and are now endangered, becoming a symbol of the anti-palm oil movement. Conventional palm oil, also known as "conflict palm oil," has undoubtedly led to child labor exploitation, "land grabbing," slavery, and deforestation with its subsequent effects on local animal species.

      To address the problems caused by conventional palm oil cultivation, an NGO was founded in 2004 by major palm oil producers, including WWF: this organization, called RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil), has established 38 different social, economic, and environmental parameters to convert conventional palm oil production into more sustainable practices, promoting forest restoration efforts and encouraging the use of land not previously deforested, while ensuring fair compensation for workers and local communities.

      It has been recognized that the problem is not just environmental but also social, as palm oil production supports the livelihoods of many local farmers.

      In 2013, RSPO also created a fund to support smallholders (Smallholder Support Fund) and finance the certification costs for sustainable production from many small family-run businesses, making it free of charge. This program has already certified 3,307 small farmers in Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand.

      An important aspect to consider is that palm oil yields per hectare are significantly higher than those of other oilseed crops (4 to 10 times higher than crops like rapeseed, sunflower, and soy!). It takes just 17 million hectares of land to provide 35% of global vegetable oil needs, while soy requires 111 million hectares to provide only 27% of the demand!

      Thus, RSPO emphasizes that demonizing palm oil is not only baseless but also dangerous, as trying to replace it with other vegetable oils with lower yields could, for the same production volumes, result in greater land consumption, further threatening the world's forests.

      This is why "sustainable palm oil production" has emerged, with certification systems from RSPO to ensure that palm oil comes from environmentally respectful sources. However, it is argued that it is virtually impossible to know whether land that now hosts a "sustainably certified" palm plantation was once a thriving forest. Greenpeace has repeatedly criticized the continuation of deforestation, even in certified areas.

      To make the regulation on sustainable palm oil even stricter, the Palm Oil Innovation Group (POIG) was created in 2013. This initiative, supported by 9 environmental organizations, including Greenpeace, Rainforest Action Network, and WWF, aims to minimize the environmental impact of palm oil. The POIG focuses on transparency, ensuring palm oil is not linked to deforestation or violations of local rights, through more stringent certification processes and third-party audits, aiming for "Zero Deforestation." It is noteworthy that RSPO has certified suppliers who have not adhered to the established guidelines.

      POIG appears to be working effectively, with the first certifications granted to three companies – two in Latin America and one in Papua New Guinea – after third-party verification of standards. POIG membership is open to RSPO members who wish to adopt stricter sustainability criteria.

      The situation remains complex, and much work remains to be done. However, WWF urges consumers not to boycott palm oil, as this would only promote alternative vegetable oils with an even more negative environmental impact. The global organization, always at the forefront of environmental protection, encourages consumers to ask their favorite brands to source certified sustainable palm oil.